After the renaissance beauty of Casa de Pilatos, we proceeded to the Cathedral of Sevilla and the tower La Giralda, the main highlights of the day. The cathedral, whose foundation was built in 1401, was once the biggest Catholic cathedral in Europe. It took 100 years for the cathedral to be completely built, considered as one of the most celebrated examples of Gothic architecture.
The 12th century clocktower La Giralda
Aside from the fact that Sevilla’s Cathedral claims to have the remains of Christopher Columbus (contested by Colombia whose government insists that the true remains are still in that land), what impressed me the most was the humongous golden Retablo Mayor housed in the Capilla Mayor or Main Chapel.
The Retablo Mayor is a real example of Catholic bling-bling and our local guide spent some 20 minutes discussing the controversies surrounding this display of religious fervor and the amount of pressed gold leaf that have been used to build this dazzling altar.
Up to this day there are no hard facts regarding the amount of gold actually used but modest estimates begin at 10 to 15 kilos, while other claims double that amount. One sees the saints and main Biblical players in various poses, depicting highlights from the life of Christ or the lives of his followers. Tier upon tiers of these gold-coated statues rise up to the chapel’s ceilings, all meant to humble the worshipper with the glory of the Catholic faith. Flash bulbs from cameras worked non-stop as tourists snapped this colossal structure.
Catholic bling-bling: Sevilla Cathedral's Retablo Mayor
The altar itself is protected or separated from the rest of the chapel with an intricate cast iron barrier or enclosure that took 14 years to build, from 1518 to 1532. I can’t help but connect this Catholic extravaganza with the gold that Spain has extracted from its foreign colonies in the previous centuries.
We toured the various chapels including the Treasury which have its own display of more gold and silver, plus the art such as paintings made by artists like Francisco Goya. In one of the glass cabinets Sjef called my attention to an elegantly carved ivory Madonna and child crafted and made in Philippines in the 17th century. The English note says: “Crafted by an unknown Philippine artist.”
Ivory Madonna and Child from the Philippines
The second part of our tour was spent climbing the clocktower La Giralda, originally a minaret of the mosque that predates the cathedral by at least 100 years. La Giralda has undergone several transformations since its original minaret version was completed in 1198. The current tower that we see today dates back to 1568. From the tower we had a panoramic view of Sevilla, although the thick mist and cloudy skies made the view that day a bit somber than we were normally accustomed to in Andalusia.
After the Cathedral we spent the next three hours in the former royal palace complex Real Alcazar, a gem on its own right and the former residence of Charles V. The patios and gardens are worth the visit with its lush and heady mix of Moorish and European designs. Wandering from one palatial hall to another, the grandeur of old Sevilla comes to life in paintings, furniture, and carpets.
Two halls are worth visiting, the Salon de Embajadores built in 1427 and the Salones de Carlos V. The Patio de las Doncellas and Patio del Yeso are also not to miss for aficionados of Moorish arcades and intricate balustrades.
We took a break from all the Catholic bling-bling and royal pageantry with a quick stroll through Sevilla’s Santa Cruz district where one finds narrow cobbled streets crammed with the usual souvenir shops, cafes and restaurants. Streets in Sevilla often end up in a square where the ubiquitous orange trees, heavy with their load of ripening fruit, provide refreshing shade.
Cathedral of Sevilla and La Giralda
No wonder that Sevilla is often mentioned and describe as the gem in Andalusia’s crown as it delights the eye and stirs the imagination. It is a city easy to fall in love with– the delightful parks, the city centre whose walls, fortifications, the total atmosphere itself is permeated with history, and where the present and past unfold seamlessly to create an ambience that the visitor longs to savor for a little bit more.
