Joel Vega

Thank you 2009!

In Books, Travel on December 31, 2009 at 2:34 pm

The Waipio Valley, Big Island in Hawaii, July 2009. An amazing place I visited with my family.

As I look back at 2009 I realized there were many things I should be thankful for. I started 2009 with a working trip to Istanbul in January and, co-incidentally, ended 2009 with another trip to Turkey in mid-December–  not to Istanbul but to the southern coastal region across Antalya to Pamukkale and to the ancient cities of Heirapolis, Aphrodisias and Myra, amongst others.

For the last blog this year, I have selected some photos which remind me of times that I am thankful for, or places finally visited after standing in my to-do list for a long time. They capture wonderful moments that make 2009 memorable.

Revisiting Istanbul in January 2009 showed me new facets of this fascinating city

And one of the pleasant surprises for me in 2009 was actually writing this 18th Moon blog as I didn’t expect it would prompt me to write about things and ideas I would normally take for granted.  Each blog is a reminder that writing is one of best ways to explore ideas, test our opinions or even re-create experiences. 

Meanings accumulate and when we write about distant experiences their impact and significance somehow shift depending on the perspective and attitudes we now have. What seems right 20 years ago may not necessarily be as convincingly true today.

18th Moon visitors thanks for passing by and enjoy the photographs.

A healthy and happy 2010 to all!

The ancient stadium in Aphrodisias, southern Turkey, with Sjef. The stadium is one of the world's intact Roman-era stadiums.

Reading Naomi Klein's captivating 'Shock Doctrine' while lazing around in Hawaii's Hapuna beach last July was a wonderful 'big thank you' moment!

Walking down San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge last July was a childhood dream fulfilled. Thank you for a memorable 2009!

Catherine’s World

In Art, Books on December 27, 2009 at 7:36 pm

Illuminated pages from Catherine of Cleve's The Book of Hours, Valkhof Museum in Nijmegen

Exhibiting for the last week at Nijmegen’s Valkhof Museum is “Catherine’s World-Devotion, Demons and Daily Life in the 15th Century,” which highlights the Book of Hours, considered one of the finest examples of illuminated manuscripts from the Northern Netherlands crafted in the late Middle Ages.

 The Book of Hours was commissioned by Catherine of Cleves, Duchess of Guelders who lived from 1417-1476. The artist who crafted this finely illuminated manuscript remains anonymous although scholars named him as the “Master of Catherine of Cleves.”

Authentic reconstruction of Catherine of Cleve's medieval costume

The book, owned by The Morgan Library & Museum in New York was specially disbound for the Nijmegen exhibit, and more than 100 illustrated pages are being shown in Nijmegen until January 3, 2010 (the exhibit opened in October 10 this year).

With a superb eye for detail the unknown artist created an intimate world of devotion, demons and daily life in the Middle Ages, and delicately drew and painted on the margins and text exquisite miniatures of scenes from the life of Christ, saints, demons, flowery scrolls, richly colored and accented with filigree of gold.

Another page from The Book of Hours, note the bird cages drawn on the margins

It is astounding to see the delicacy and control of the artist’s hand since some of the drawings and paintings are so miniscule in scale they could only have been possibly painted and drawn with a magnifying glass and using drawing instruments that were as fine as needles. The fine penmanship and scroll-like borders were so delicately and subtly accented that they looked as if they were printed with modern printing techniques.

Accompanying the main exhibit of The Book of Hours were artworks from major museums and collectors of manuscripts from across the world such as the British Library (London), the Royal Library (The Hague), and the Landesmuseum fur Kunst und Kulturgeschichte (Munster, Germany). Important manuscripts were also loaned by The British Museum, Fitzwilliam Museum (Cambridge) and the Staaliche Museen zu Berlin.

A hall in the Valkhof also displays faithful replicas of clothing worn by Catherine’s household and servants. One of the unique pieces was an authentic reconstruction of the costume in which Catherine of Cleves was portrayed in the Book of Hours.

Delicate gold filigree and scrollwork adorn the book's margins

A parallel exhibition shows the administration books and ‘kitchen’ records of the duchess which includes the very first written and printed recipe books in the Netherlands. Also on display were kitchen utensils, pots and glassware from the Middle Ages, as a whole providing a complete overview of the life and times (at least of the elite classes) of that period.

Viewing the pages

The long lines of visitors surprised me, but that could have been due to the exhibit’s last and final week. We stood on queue for more than half an hour. Magnifying glasses were supplied and that prompted visitors to carefully view each page, adding to the long wait and queue.

 The pages were either framed or displayed in specially lighted glass cases and to fully appreciate the illuminated pages one has to scrutinize the pages inch by inch. Since flash photography is not allowed, I only managed to take shabby shots as the books were displayed under glass and in dim light conditions.

This is the second time since 2005, after the successful Brothers of Limbourg’s illuminated manuscripts exhibit, that the Valkhof Museum has given attention to Nijmegen’s art history and legacy as a center of fine art in the Middle Ages.

For lovers of exquisite art works and rare books that were made with lavish attention and eye for detail, the Nijmegen exhibit is definitely a not-to-miss show.

A silver chalice from the household of Duchess Catherine

White Christmas

In Christmas, Uncategorized on December 21, 2009 at 2:13 pm

Dutch winter landscape

After a week in rainy Turkey, I arrived back in snowy Holland late last week, on a landscape that was white, cold and slippery. For the first time in 10 years even the winter-loving Dutch were taken by surprise by the snowstorm over the weekend, a storm that busted transport systems not only across the Netherlands but also in Belgium, France and the UK.

Local news were full of winter blues with passengers stranded in train stations, highways and bus stops as traffic grinded to a halt, leaving thousands of commuters out in the cold, literally.

Snow truck on the road

With temperatures plummeting to minus 10 degrees Celsius (low by Dutch standards at this time of the year) driving from Eindhoven Airport to Nijmegen, which normally takes 45 minutes, almost took two hours with poor visibility, slow-moving traffic and intermittent highway detours.

On Friday and Saturday morning I woke up to clumps of snow festooned on the glass of the bedroom window. With a chill in my bones, the first thought I had was that I don’t even need fake snow dust to decorate window panes for a White Christmas!

Bikers have a tough time on slippery roads

Weather bulletins on Dutch TV warned motorists and commuters to restrict travel on Sunday. Bus stations were closed and what usually was the busiest shopping weekend just before Christmas turned out to be a non-event for shopping centres, a calamity for the retail sector which is counting on year-end sales to lift the moribund retail performance this autumn and last summer.

My weekend plan was to catch a unique exhibit of an illustrated miniature prayer book dating from the Middle Ages which is currently being displayed at the Valkhof Museum in Nijmegen, but without a working public transport system, I trudged back home in ankle-deep snow.

Trudging back home. Behind me the shopping mall complex

The numbing chill of minus 10 never fails to inspire me to voluntarily exile myself at home. After almost 11 years in the Netherlands I still have to get use to the winter blues, with the sun already down by 4 in the afternoon and darkness lingering up to 8 in the morning the following day. Oriental fish that I am, I must admit that I do miss the sun…

The long slippery road to the office, on a Monday morning

However, the chance of a White Christmas this week is high, a prospect the cheers up a lot of people.

I still owe 18th Moon readers assorted reports of my Hawaiian trip last July and the recent break in southern Turkey. Loads to write in the next few days…

In the meantime, here are some snap shots of the snowy landscape in Holland.

Enjoy!

Snow-swept highway

Empty bus stop

Wintry landscape in Holland